Behind their ramparts, Tunisia's medinas have preserved the layout of the Arab-Muslim cities of the past: a great mosque at the centre, specialised souks around it, then residential quarters with narrow alleys and studded doors. Three of them, Tunis, Sousse and Kairouan, are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Others, such as Sfax, Mahdia and Hammamet, are not on the list but are just as rewarding to visit. Here is how to explore them, one alley at a time.
Tunis, the capital's medina
Inscribed by UNESCO in 1979, the medina of Tunis holds hundreds of monuments: palaces, mosques, mausoleums, madrasas and fountains. Everything converges on the Zitouna Mosque, around which the souks of perfume makers, chechia hat makers and weavers are arranged. Enter through Bab Bhar, the Sea Gate, then let the covered alleys guide you. Look up towards the rooftop terraces: some offer panoramic views over the minarets and white roofs of the old town, a perfect spot to pause and take it all in.
TunisKairouan, the holy city
Founded in the 7th century, Kairouan was the first great capital of Islam in the Maghreb, and it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988. Its Great Mosque, with its vast courtyard and massive minaret, is among the oldest religious monuments in North Africa. In the ochre-walled medina, craftsmen keep alive the tradition of knotted carpets and makroud, small semolina pastries filled with dates. Do not miss the Aghlabid Basins, a remarkable 9th-century hydraulic work that once supplied the city.
KairouanSousse, the medina by the sea
Also inscribed by UNESCO in 1988, the medina of Sousse is one of the best-preserved examples of a fortified town from the early centuries of Islam. Its ribat, a fortress-monastery whose watchtower rises above the rooftops, and its citadel-like Great Mosque recall the defensive role of this coastal city. Its crenellated ramparts run for more than two kilometres. Inside, lively souks lead up to the kasbah, home to the archaeological museum and its magnificent Roman mosaics, among the finest in the country.
SousseSfax, Mahdia and Hammamet: three remarkable medinas
Although not UNESCO-listed, these medinas make for fascinating visits. The medina of Sfax, surrounded by almost intact ramparts, remains a lively, working commercial district, far from mass tourism. In Mahdia, once the capital of the Fatimids, you pass through the Skifa el Kahla, a monumental fortified gate, before reaching the headland and its seaside cemetery. In Hammamet, the small white medina, enclosed by walls right next to the beach, is best discovered by strolling up to the kasbah and its ramparts.
