Overview
Some twenty kilometres from central Tunis, on the hills overlooking the gulf, Carthage and Sidi Bou Said form one of Tunisia's most famous pairings. Founded, according to tradition, by the Phoenician princess Elissa, Carthage was Rome's great rival before being destroyed and then rebuilt as a major Roman city. Its remains, scattered among leafy residential districts, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Right next door, Sidi Bou Said clings to a cliff above the sea. Its whitewashed houses, blue doors and mashrabiya windows, bougainvillea and cobbled lanes have charmed painters and writers from Paul Klee to André Gide. The two are easily combined in a single day thanks to the TGM train, with ancient history in the morning and a leisurely stroll at sunset in the evening.
What to see
Byrsa Hill and the Carthage Museum
The cradle of the Punic city, Byrsa Hill offers a panorama over the gulf and the ancient harbours. The Carthage National Museum displays stelae, sarcophagi, Punic masks and mosaics, next to the remains of a Punic residential quarter.
The Antonine Baths
Built by the sea in the 2nd century, these baths were among the largest in the Roman world. Imposing columns and vaulted halls remain, set in an archaeological park facing the Mediterranean.
The Punic Ports and the Tophet of Salammbo
The two basins of the Punic ports, one commercial and the other a circular military harbour, can still be made out in the landscape. Close by, the Tophet is a Punic sanctuary where hundreds of votive stelae were found.
The Roman Theatre and Roman Villas
The restored Roman theatre hosts the Carthage International Festival every summer. The Roman Villas park, with the House of the Aviary and its mosaics, offers a superb view over the bay.
The lanes of Sidi Bou Said
The village is best explored on foot, climbing the cobbled main street to the top, around the shrine of the saint Abu Said al-Baji who gave it its name. Every turn reveals a studded door, a blue window or a sea view.
Ennejma Ezzahra
Built in the early 20th century by Baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger, this palace combines Arab-Andalusian architecture, carved ceilings and terraced gardens. Today it houses the Centre for Arab and Mediterranean Music.
Things to do
- Explore Carthage by TGMThe Carthage Salammbo, Byrsa, Dermech and Hannibal stations let you hop from one site to the next. A single ticket generally gives access to several archaeological sites.
- Attend the Carthage International FestivalEvery summer the Roman theatre hosts concerts and shows under the stars. A rare experience in an ancient setting.
- Watch the sunsetThe perched terraces of Sidi Bou Said offer a spectacular view over the Gulf of Tunis and Mount Boukornine. The scene is especially beautiful at the end of the day.
- Walk down to the marinaA staircase and a path connect the village with the marina at the foot of the cliff. It is a pleasant waterside walk with a small beach.
- Visit the AcropoliumThe former Cathedral of Saint Louis on Byrsa Hill has become a cultural venue hosting concerts and exhibitions. Its neo-Byzantine architecture dominates the landscape.
Beaches & nature
Between Carthage and Sidi Bou Said, the coastline alternates small coves, town beaches such as Amilcar and cliffs covered in pines and bougainvillea. The wide beaches of La Marsa and Gammarth are only minutes away. The gardens of the villas and the green spaces around the ancient sites make this one of the leafiest areas of the Tunis suburbs.
Food & local specialities
Local cooking celebrates fish from the gulf, but Sidi Bou Said is best known for its sweet treats enjoyed on terraces overlooking the sea.
Where to stay
Sidi Bou Said
Stay in a guesthouse in the heart of the village, peaceful once the day visitors have left. Ideal for couples and romantic breaks.
Carthage
A spacious residential district dotted with villas and ancient sites, close to the TGM stations. Perfect for history lovers who want a calm base.
La Marsa and Gammarth
Just to the north, these seaside resorts offer beaches, a lively promenade and large hotels. A good choice for families and anyone combining the beach with sightseeing.
Shopping & markets
Sidi Bou Said is famous for its wire birdcages painted white and blue, which have become a symbol of the village. The main street is lined with craft shops selling ceramics, jewellery, paintings and olive-wood objects. In Carthage, stalls near the sites offer replicas of mosaics and ancient oil lamps. The village's art galleries are also well worth a look.
Getting there
By train
The TGM links Tunis Marine station with Carthage in about 25 minutes and Sidi Bou Said in around 30 minutes, with several stations serving the sites.
By plane
Tunis-Carthage Airport is about 10 km away. A taxi takes around twenty minutes depending on traffic.
By car
From Tunis, the road via La Goulette and La Marsa reaches Carthage in about 25 minutes. Parking is limited in Sidi Bou Said village, so it is best to park lower down.
By ferry
The port of La Goulette, where ferries from Europe arrive, is only about 8 km from Carthage.
Getting around
The sites of Carthage are spread over several kilometres: link them by TGM, taxi or on foot for the closest ones. Sidi Bou Said can only be explored on foot, with sloping lanes and steps, so bring comfortable shoes.
Day trips nearby
The Medina of Tunis
About 20 km away, the UNESCO-listed medina and the Bardo Museum perfectly complement a visit to Carthage.
La Goulette
About 8 km away, the old port with its Ottoman fortress and working-class atmosphere is renowned for grilled fish.
La Marsa and Gammarth
3 to 8 km to the north, these seaside districts offer beaches, a seafront promenade and Cape Gammarth.
Our tips
- Buy a combined ticket at the entrance of the first site; it generally covers several of Carthage's remains.
- The presidential palace is in Carthage: photographing its surroundings and certain military areas is forbidden.
- Visit Sidi Bou Said early in the morning or on a weekday to avoid the weekend crowds.
- Bring a hat and water, as the sites of Carthage offer little shade.
FAQ
Can you visit Carthage and Sidi Bou Said on the same day?
Yes, that is actually the most common plan. Spend the morning at the Carthage sites, then take the TGM to Sidi Bou Said for the afternoon and sunset.
What remains of Punic Carthage?
Since the Romans razed the city in 146 BC, Punic remains are more discreet: the Byrsa quarter, the Punic ports and the Tophet. Most of the visible ruins are Roman.
Why is Sidi Bou Said blue and white?
In the 1910s, Baron d'Erlanger helped have the village protected and its blue-and-white harmony enforced. It thus became one of the first protected sites in the country.
Is there a beach in Sidi Bou Said?
There is a small beach near the marina at the foot of the cliff. For proper beach days, the beaches of La Marsa and Gammarth are very close.
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