Overview
Tunisia's second city, Sfax is a major economic hub that looks to the sea, olive oil and trade. Far from mass tourism, it offers a rare immersion in everyday Tunisian life. Its treasure is its medina, one of the best preserved in the country, entirely enclosed by 9th-century ramparts. You wander between covered souks, ancient mosques and merchant mansions, among craftsmen and traders who far outnumber the visitors.
Beyond the walls, the modern city unfolds along wide avenues lined with colonial and Art Deco buildings, around a town hall crowned by a clock tower. Sfax is also the departure point for ferries to the Kerkennah Islands, a flat, tranquil archipelago where life follows the rhythm of traditional fishing. With its airport, railway station and motorway to Tunis, the city makes an excellent base for exploring central and southern Tunisia.
What to see
The medina and ramparts
Enclosed by almost intact crenellated walls, the medina is entered through Bab Diwan, its main gate. Inside, specialised souks, busy lanes and houses with studded doors form a remarkably lively whole.
Great Mosque of Sfax
Founded in the 9th century, it stands at the heart of the medina. Its decorated tiered minaret recalls that of Kairouan; admire it from the surrounding lanes, as the interior is reserved for worshippers.
Dar Jellouli
This fine 18th-century mansion houses the museum of popular arts and traditions. Courtyards, painted woodwork, costumes, jewellery and everyday objects illustrate the refinement of Sfax's old families.
Kasbah of Sfax
This fortress at the southwest corner of the ramparts houses a museum dedicated to traditional architecture. You can climb onto the walkway for a view over the medina.
Town hall and archaeological museum
The town hall, emblem of the modern city, houses a small archaeological museum displaying mosaics and objects from Thyna and nearby ancient sites.
Thyna archaeological site
About ten kilometres south, the ruins of ancient Thaenae reveal baths and mosaics, next to salt pans frequented by pink flamingos.
Things to do
- Explore the souksStroll between the spice souk, the fabric souk and the jewellers' souk, where trade remains genuinely authentic.
- Head to the Kerkennah IslandsTake the ferry for a day or more on the archipelago, among fishing villages, palm groves and quiet little beaches.
- Watch the flamingosThe Thyna salt pans and the coast south of the city attract flamingos and wading birds, especially in winter and spring.
- Discover the European town's architectureAround Avenue Hédi Chaker and Bab Bhar, many colonial and Art Deco facades are worth a stroll with your eyes turned upwards.
- Taste fish by the portThe fish market and the eateries around the port showcase the rich catch of the Gulf of Gabès.
Beaches & nature
Sfax is not a beach town: its coastline is mainly industrial and port land. For swimming and nature, head to the Kerkennah Islands, with calm beaches and shallow waters fringed by palm trees. On the mainland, the Thyna salt pans form a lovely landscape of pinkish basins, while the hinterland is covered with olive groves as far as the eye can see.
Food & local specialities
A city of the sea and olive trees, Sfax has developed a distinctive cuisine rich in fish, seafood and festive recipes.
Where to stay
Modern city centre
Ideal for business travellers and sightseers, with classic hotels, cafés and the medina just a short walk away.
Outlying residential districts
Quieter, these areas suit family stays or travellers with a car, with easy access to the main roads.
Kerkennah Islands
For a relaxing stay by the water, the hotels and guesthouses of Sidi Fredj and the archipelago's villages attract couples and families seeking peace.
Shopping & markets
The Sfax medina is first and foremost a shopping place for locals: fabrics, spices, copper utensils, gold and silver jewellery, pottery and wedding goods. Souk Er-Rbaa and the streets around the Great Mosque have the highest concentration of shops. Look out for the region's renowned olive oil and traditional pastries, which keep well.
Getting there
By plane
Sfax-Thyna International Airport, a few kilometres from the centre, offers domestic flights and some international connections.
By car
Via the A1 motorway, Sfax is about 3 h from Tunis, 1 h 30 from Sousse and 45 minutes from El Jem.
By train
The Tunis-Sfax railway line links the two cities in about 3 h 30 to 4 h, stopping at Sousse and El Jem.
By louage (shared taxi)
Shared louage taxis connect Sfax with Tunis, the Sahel and the whole of southern Tunisia, from several stations depending on the destination.
By ferry
Ferries run between the port of Sfax and Sidi Youssef on the Kerkennah Islands, with a crossing of about 1 h to 1 h 30.
Getting around
The city centre and medina are easy to explore on foot. Yellow taxis are plentiful and handy for outlying districts. On the Kerkennah Islands, a car or bicycle is useful for getting between villages, as the archipelago is flat and the main road crosses both main islands.
Day trips nearby
Kerkennah Islands
About 20 km offshore and reached by ferry, the archipelago offers fishing villages, traditional charfia fishing, palm groves and quiet beaches.
El Jem
About 65 km north, its UNESCO-listed Roman amphitheatre is an unmissable excursion.
Mahrès
About 35 km south, this small coastal town is known for its open-air sculptures and its visual arts festival.
Our tips
- Book your Kerkennah ferry place early in summer and at weekends, especially if travelling with a car.
- The medina is very busy on weekdays and quieter on Sundays, when many shops close.
- Dress modestly in the medina, where life remains very traditional.
- Try Kerkennah's dried octopus, a local speciality often sold at Sidi Youssef port and in Sfax.
FAQ
Is Sfax worth visiting as a tourist?
Yes, especially if you are looking for authenticity: its medina is one of the best preserved and liveliest in the country, with very few tourists.
How do I get to the Kerkennah Islands?
Ferries leave the port of Sfax for Sidi Youssef several times a day; the crossing takes about 1 h to 1 h 30 and carries both foot passengers and vehicles.
Are there beaches in Sfax?
The city's coastline is not well suited to swimming. The best beaches in the area are on the Kerkennah Islands.
What is charfia fishing?
It is an ancestral fishing technique of the Kerkennah Islands, using barriers of palm fronds planted in the shallows to guide fish into traps. It is inscribed on UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage.
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